I was walking towards Restaurant Hà when I felt the first drops of rain. I had scheduled an interview with the new restaurant’s owners and no amount of wet weather was going to turn me around. By the time I reached the restaurant, which beyond its terrasse lies a splendid view of Parc Jeanne-Mance, the trees were bending over backwards in the sudden and severe wind. The sky darkened quickly and just as I stepped inside Hà, the heavens opened wide and drenched the city.
Keeping the interview as unstructured as possible, I prepared only a few talking points to lead the conversation and let them tell their story more organically. When I asked them how it all began, without hesitation Francisco pointed at Flore-Anne like a big brother tattling on his sister; she was the instigator. She smiled and started telling me that they all came together out of a genuine and common love for Souvenirs d’Indochine, the restaurant that once occupied the space. When they learned the Mr. Hà was ready to usher his restaurant into a new era they jumped on the chance to ensure his legacy would be kept in tact.
After a few minutes I noticed that as Francisco and Flore-Anne started talking about the restaurant their fatigue seemed to slip away. The slumped shoulders were gone and instead of tired eyes I saw sparks of excitement ignite. As they elaborated on the concept of the new restaurant, they explained their inspiration. Hà is Montreal’s answer to the popular Vietnam restaurant format known as Bai Hoi (Vietnamese for fresh beer). Often found in corner stores and set up as make shift restaurants and bars, Bai Hoi are veritable cultural centers in Vietnam. Everything from casual conversation to massive business deals go down in and around these little noodle shops. They are nothing fancy but the food is delicious. While Hà does have a fancy side, the staples that inspire Montreal’s first Bai Hoi remain the same, good food, fresh beer and a pleasant atmosphere.
As the rain kept pouring down we kept chatting about the backgrounds that each of the individuals bring to the table at Hà. Of course Mr. Hà brings decades of experience in the area (and a fan following) and without a doubt remains the heart and soul of the restaurant. Francisco is active in TV and radio (I’m sure most of you may know who he is!) and is former owner of the La Porte Rouge on Mount Royal. Nic keeps busy with both Flyjin and Velvet and Flore-Anne, I learned, has a long past in media relations with Les Évadés.
For each of partners Hà is a way for them to enjoy each other’s company and enjoy the company of the guests that will visit them on a daily basis. I was lucky enough to sample a freshly made soup from a recipe that’s been passed down to one of the chefs from generations past (not even the owners know the recipe) and it was delicious. While slurping I asked Francisco and Flore-Anne what were some of their favorite dishes. Francisco had no trouble telling me that he loves Mr. Hà’s tonkinese soup while Flore-Anne was more evasive with her answer. She is a fan of more than one menu item.
When the time came to leave my thoughts drifted back to the word passion. It’s a luxury money can’t buy and being in the restaurant business requires a great deal of passion. It also requires a little risk, a lot of heart but mostly it requires great food and drink that will keep people coming back for more. With all these elements in their corner, the team at Hà is already off to a great start. Enjoy.
Photo credit: Karel C.